Updated
Updated · The New York Times · Jul 30
Jason Smith Burns Pinot Noir Vineyard, Closing 51-Year Family Winery as U.S. Wine Sales Hit 20-Year Low
Updated
Updated · The New York Times · Jul 30

Jason Smith Burns Pinot Noir Vineyard, Closing 51-Year Family Winery as U.S. Wine Sales Hit 20-Year Low

1 articles · Updated · The New York Times · Jul 30

Summary

  • Jason Smith, 57, tore out and burned a pinot noir vineyard in Soledad, California, then decided to sell all his land and shut down the family winery his business had run for 51 years.
  • U.S. wine demand has fallen so far that California wineries produced less wine last year than at any point in the past 25 years, leaving unsold bottles piled up in storerooms and shops.
  • That glut has crushed vineyard economics: for some growers, it is now cheaper to let grapes rot on the vine than to pay to harvest them.
  • Nationwide sales are at their lowest level in more than two decades as health warnings curb drinking and younger consumers shift toward canned cocktails, seltzers and nonalcoholic drinks.

Insights

As California growers burn their vineyards, what alternative beverage is secretly stealing the loyalty of the next generation?
With wine consumption plummeting globally by 2026, will surviving premium brands become luxury items exclusively for the wealthy?
Could the mass destruction of California's historic vineyards actually be a hidden blessing for the state's environmental future?